Manufactured by Marsh Marine...Tank Cleaning Professionals
“Our experience is your protection since 1966”
Racor Filter Cleaning...Continued:
T
he
Racor
is
called
the
primary
filter.
Usually,
diesel
engines
have
a
smaller,
secondary
filter(s)
mounted
on
the
engine
itself.
This
secondary
filter
is
finer
(smaller
micron
size)
than
the
Racor.
Unless
your
particular
engine
calls
for
a
fine,
2
micron
filter,
I
would
not
use
this
as
a
primary
since
it
will
clog
up
too
quickly.
This
can
cause
fuel
starvation
which
will
create
excessive
smoking,
loss
of
power,
and
eventually
stop
the
engine.
Most
diesel
engines
can
pass
particles
as
large
as
30
microns
without
harm
to
their
fuel
pump
or
injectors,
so
usually
where
there
is
both
a
primary
and
a
secondary
filter,
the
primary
(the
Racor),
will
be
a
30
micron
(or
sometimes
10
micron). I prefer the 30’s since they will provide far longer filtering time between changes.
A
s
fuel
is
filtered,
the
filter
media
will
accumulate
debris
and
clog
eventually
require
changing.
Typically,
the
element
will
become
black
with
accumulated
Asphaltenes
.
This
greasy,
gooey-like
substance
is
what
is
commonly
called
algae.
It
is
not
algae.
It
is
actually
diesel
fuel
breaking
down
over
time.
Deciding
when
it
is
time
to
change
the
filter
is
somewhat
arbitrary.
Most
owners
change
filters
based
upon
engine
hours
or
visual
inspection
of
the
filter’s
appearance.
A
more
accurate
method
is
to
install
vacuum
gauges
atop
the
Racor
which
will
indicate
when
the
filter
has
clogged
to
point
where
changing
is
due.
These
gauges
are
color
coded
so
one
can
easily
see
the
filter’s
current
condition
at
a
glance.
Racor
offers
these
gauges
as
options.
I
believe
they
are
a
very
worthwhile
addition
and
urge
everyone
who
has
a
Racor
to
add
them.
They
provide
great
piece
of
mind
and
the
most accurate means of checking the filters.
C
hanging
these
filters
is
a
bit
complicated
and
there
are
many
wrong
ways
to
do
it.
Every
technician
has
his
own
method,
but
since
this
is
my
article,
I
am
going
to
give
you
the
one
I
feel
is
best.
First,
use
only
genuine
Racor
replacement
elements.
I
know
you
are
thinking
he’s
just
selling
the
high
end
approach,
but
hear
me
out.
With
the
Racor
filters,
you
can
be
sure
they
will
fit
correctly
and
that
the
filter
media
is
made
with
the
Aquabloc
©
resin.
Many
of
the
generics
are
not!
Your
engine
is
too
expensive
to
cheap
out
on
inferior
filters.
Second,
turn
off
any
fuel
shut
off
valves
in
the
fuel
lines
on
either
side
of
the
Racor
filter.
This
will
prevent
fuel
siphoning
from
the
tank or the engine.
A
lright,
we
are
ready
to
change
the
filter
cartridge.
Depending
on
the
Racor’s
location
and
accessibility,
it
may
be
difficult
to
remove
the
filter
without
spilling
fuel.
Have
fuel
absorbent
towels,
shop
rags
or
paper
towels
ready.
To
prevent
a
fuel
spill
into
the
bilge,
put
a
bucket
or
shallow
pan
beneath
the
filter
assembly.
I
find
a
plastic
gallon
oil
jug
works
good.
Cut
a
hole
in
its
side
and
slide
it
beneath
the
bowl
drain.
If
there
isn’t
room
for
this,
here’s
a
tip.
I
place
a
heavy
plastic
bag
containing
several
fuel
absorbent
towels
under
the
filter
unit.
I
like
trash
compactor
bags.
They
are
rugged
and
will
not
leak
easily.
Be
sure
the
bag
has
no
holes!
If
you
don’t
have
a
heavy
bag,
then
double
bag.
With
the
container
or
plastic
bag
spread
beneath
the
filter,
wrap
a
fuel
rag
around
the
filter
case
just
below
the
lid.
This
will
prevent
fuel
from
running
down
the
outsides.
Next,
twist
off
the
“T”
handle
and
remove
the
lid.
If
you
are
lucky,
fuel
will
not
overflow
the
canister.
With
the
lid
removed,
locate
the
two
plastic
handle
tabs
usually
tucked
around
the
sides
of
the
filter’s
plastic
top.
Gently
pull
upward
on
these
to
ease
out
the
old
element.
Do
this
slowly
to
allow
fuel
absorbed
in
the
filter
to
drain
back
into
the
unit.
Once
the
element is above the fuel level, let it drip awhile, then place it quickly into the plastic bag below.
Deck Fill Protection Device